The nomadic man and the immobile traveler

The rainy season has come to an end in Madagascar. Mother Nature is splendid, lush, and generous. Birds fill the air with melodious songs. The evenings, as the sun sets in a fiery display, are beginning to cool on the Malagasy Altiplano. 

Antananarivo, our capital, is surrounded by a stunning patchwork of rice paddies. Amid shades of green, the city stretches across the winding hills at nearly 1,500 meters above sea level. 

Under normal circumstances, on this April 24, 2020, carefree travelers would be exploring the country, meeting warm smiles and kindness, their eyes alight with wonder. Together, we would be trekking peacefully in well-known or lesser-known mountain ranges. Madagascar is a true haven for trekking: Andringitra, Marojejy, Ibity, Isalo, or Vavavato. In unique locations like Makay, we would quench our thirst for freedom and the joy of being in preserved nature, often accompanied by cheerful and spirited porters. 

Together, we would be discovering an immense territory, a kaleidoscope of geographical and human identities, bound by common denominators: kindness, smiles, and hospitality. 

We would sleep under the stars, in carefully chosen accommodations or idyllic spots. Madagascar is also a delight for food lovers, offering a thousand flavors. 

Emerald-green lagoons and the Mozambique Channel, dotted with delicate triangular sails, provide peace to those who wander these spaces. 

Together, we would glide gently along the tranquil waters of rivers and canals, surrounded by lush vegetation—the Pangalanes, the Manambolo. 

The paradise islands of Nosy Be, Sainte Marie, and Radama captivate with their pristine nature.

But it is April 24, 2020

The news is harsh and cold. 

The pandemic is claiming thousands of lives worldwide. 

A grim and sorrowful period. 

No traveler roams the Great Island. 

No journeys take place across its lands. 

No planes take off or land at Ivato or elsewhere. 

No accommodations host travelers seeking leisure. 

Human life stands still, petrified, as time flows on, unchanged and serene. 

Nature reclaims its rights while humanity halts nearly all movement. Confined, we wait for better days, our eyes glued to global news updates, our ears tuned to death tolls from afar. 

Nothing moves—almost—because confinement is nearly impossible in a country like Madagascar. 

The pandemic has brought humanity to its knees, stopped in its tracks by a seemingly insignificant virus born of biodiversity destruction. 

It is a necessary pause, a moment for the Earth to catch its breath. 

A silent warning, a solemn reminder. 

Are we capable of heeding it, understanding it, and acting differently? 

This is not a whim but a genuine cautionary call, an alarm bell.

The current situation in Madagascar

In Madagascar, the situation is both simple and complex. 

The epidemic, as of today, appears to be contained and under control, with no signs of further spread. Fortunately, no deaths have been reported, and no severe cases have emerged. The hundred or so cases involve mild symptoms, and patients are expected to recover quickly.

Why? It’s too early to analyze.

The virus arrived on the island late, and strict health measures were implemented immediately. These seem to have curtailed the disease’s spread. 

The Malagasy population is young and has strong resistance to epidemics, viruses, parasites, and other microbial attacks. It’s likely that these robust immune defenses have contributed to preventing further transmission. 

Another factor may be years of treatment with chloroquine to combat a deadlier enemy: malaria. 

After a month of partial confinement, life is slowly resuming—dazed, masked, and groggy, like a boxer on the brink of a knockout. 

We remain vigilant, cautious about tomorrow, to avoid a resurgence of Covid-19. 

Madagascar, as an island, is isolated from the rest of the world. This is our advantage, as it makes control measures easier to implement.

The Tourism Crisis

We, as travelers and travel professionals, exist only through your desire to explore. Today, uncertainty clouds our dreams. 

Our small, agile yet fragile company, like a schooner navigating a stormy ocean, faces a precarious future.

Tourism—like other economic sectors—is suffering greatly.

How will we emerge from this crisis? 

How can we protect our collaborators who have given their best to build our ideal of eco-responsible travel? 

How can we prevent a health crisis from doubling into a profound socio-economic crisis? 

Our limitations are gradually becoming clear. 

Fortunately, we receive daily messages of solidarity—words or gestures that sustain us. Thank you from the bottom of our hearts.

Reimagining Travel

Are we capable of reinventing our concept of travel? 

Must we completely change our approach and redirect our expertise—our organizational and planning skills, our deep knowledge of the land and its people—toward other causes, putting aside our love for well-crafted travel? 

Can we pivot to activities that are meaningful and aligned with the crisis and post-crisis needs of Madagascar? 

Should we, as some suggest, abolish the concept of travel and ban travelers entirely? 

The nature of humankind is to wander; humans are migratory by essence. Travel is their deepest nature, their DNA. Throughout history, humans have moved—out of necessity, constraint, conquest, and curiosity. 

In groups or individually, humans are fundamentally nomadic. Even when stationary, their minds wander, driven by curiosity and necessity. 

How can we reconcile this inherent nature of humans as travelers with a respectful and responsible economic activity?

A Necessary Evolution in Travel

It seems obvious that the way we travel must and should change. The spirit of travel must evolve—a sentiment we already shared before the coronavirus. 

This crisis accelerates the transformation, propelling us toward a necessary shift. 

The roots of the current crisis lie in humanity’s destruction of biodiversity. This is not the first time, and if we do not collectively address it, it will not be the last. 

A few days ago, I wrote to a partner who runs a small company in France: 

"Our way of conceptualizing travel, of crafting itineraries, is tied to respect for humanity—with humility and humanism…"

And today?

The extended Détours family, from Mauritania to Madagascar, is working tirelessly to manage the current situation and prepare for the future. We are building with pragmatism and realism—for you, for all of us. 

We do not have all the answers to the multitude of questions, but we remain active.

A Call for Responsible Travel

Our societies suffer; the whole world suffers. Yet our spirit as travelers, our outlook on life, and our motivation remain intact, dedicated to fostering human connections, universal respect, and shared responsibility. 

Even during this dark time, which shakes us deeply, we are encouraged to travel (immobile for now) with our senses awakened—to discover, share, listen, understand, see, respect, and savor the thousand flavors of life. We remain attentive and curious travelers. 

We must continue to embrace slow and intimate journeys that harmonize with the natural environment, without excess or exploitation. 

Perhaps then we will have made progress, and this warning will have been beneficial.

The Détours team wishes you all the best. For now, prefer the immobile journey. The time to travel will come soon!

Sylvain PHILIP - Antananarivo le 24 avril 2020