Sainte Marie Island | Nosy Boraha - Guide Madagascar - Détours Madagascar

Sainte Marie Island | Nosy Boraha

Sainte-Marie, also known as Nosy Boraha, is a tropical destination off the eastern coast of Madagascar. This small island, measuring 49 km in length and 5 km in width, offers an idyllic landscape of small fishing villages and pristine beaches. Authentic and unspoiled, it promises a true getaway!

History

The Jews?

Between legend and reality, the history of Sainte-Marie or Nosy Boraha is fascinating. Some also call it Nosy Mbavy, meaning "Island of Women." 

According to legend, a Jew named Abraham (or Ibrahim) was overwhelmed by a group of women upon his arrival on the island. Tired and hungry, he met an old woman who pitied him and gave him food. 

Grateful, Abraham blessed her and her descendants so they would always find water during their travels. The legend says a spring emerged near the old woman’s home. 

Some historians believe the first foreigners to visit the island were Yemeni Jews.

__The Legend of Jonah __
Another legend links Nosy Boraha to the biblical story of Jonah. According to a villager named Boraha, Jonah was expelled by a whale and rescued by a dolphin that brought him to the island’s shore.

The Pirates

The first Europeans landed on Nosy Boraha in the late 16th century. Pirate Thomas White married a princess from eastern Madagascar. Their union gave rise to the Zanamalata dynasty. Their son, Ratsimilaho, founded the Betsimisaraka ethnic group, uniting coastal tribes. His kingdom stretched to Mahavelona.

In 1685, Nosy Boraha became a significant pirate hideout. Most ships passing through were looted, and buccaneers found safe shelter on Sainte-Marie.
They plundered spice traders from India who stopped on the island to resupply or repair their ships.
Some historians estimate that 1,000 pirates took refuge on the island. Shipwrecks from pirate vessels can still be seen near the Bay of Forbans. Two of these ships are said to have belonged to Captain Kidd and Captain Condent. Pirate graves are also located near Ambodifotatra.

The French

Nosy Boraha came under French control on July 30, 1750, when Queen Betty signed a treaty. According to legend, Betty, the daughter of Ratsimilaho, fell in love with a former Gascon soldier named Jean Onésime Filet (nicknamed "La Bigorne"), who charmed her into signing the treaty. Betty's palace then became the Governor’s residence, now a museum.
Madame Islet, where this monument is located, also houses Madagascar’s first Catholic church (1857), whose altar was a gift from Empress Eugénie, wife of Napoleon III.
The first French settlers on the island were pirates, whose graves can still be visited at Ambodifotatra.

Sainte-Marie Today

A friendly population

A jewel on Madagascar’s eastern coast, Sainte-Marie is full of wonders. From leisurely walks and swimming to sipping coconut punch while watching a mesmerizing sunset, there’s plenty to enjoy during your stay. Forget rushing through visits—embrace the serenity and beauty of every moment. 

Nosy Boraha is surrounded by fine sandy beaches near Antongil and Tintingue bays, both rumored pirate hideouts. 

The island boasts a rich cultural and linguistic mix. The local dialect, Saint-Marien, blends French with Malagasy dialects and includes Bantu, English, and Indonesian influences. The friendliness and generosity of the locals add to the island’s charm. Let the peaceful atmosphere and the joy of the people enchant you.

Islets, Beaches, and Bays

Sainte-Marie includes several islets alongside the main island. Lush vegetation, beaches, bays, and coves make it a paradise to explore. The main island is best discovered on foot or by bicycle. Although the terrain is rugged in the eastern part, it features beautiful beaches like Ampanihy Peninsula Beach, separated from the mainland by Ampanihy Bay. Swimmers should be cautious as the waters are deep. For secluded bays and coves, opt for a canoe ride. 

A coral reef protects the bays, making them perfect for scuba diving to admire coral formations, tropical fish, and sea turtles that have taken refuge in pirate shipwrecks.

Forests

Like all destinations on Madagascar's east coast, Sainte-Marie benefits from high rainfall, nurturing lush vegetation. Visit Ankarena Beach, surrounded by forest and a seaside cave, to discover the flora and fauna of the Indian Ocean.

The Ikalalao Forest, covering 400 hectares, is home to various orchids and shelters three species of lemurs: *Microcebus*, mouse lemurs, and dwarf lemurs. The forest is also inhabited by endemic chameleons. 

The secondary forest of Ambodena hosts a variety of birds, chameleons, geckos, and tree frogs. Primates here include mouse lemurs, white-headed brown lemurs, gentle gray lemurs, and red-and-white sportive lemurs. 

The Ampanihy Forest is dominated by mangroves, best explored by canoe. Sea turtles sometimes come ashore to lay eggs on the nearby beach.

What to see on Sainte-Marie?

  • The Catholic church dating back to 1857, with an altar gifted by Empress Eugénie of France. 
  • The old fort atop a hill, still bearing Louis XV’s emblem. 
  • Forbans Island, a circular islet with a ruined arch. 
  • The pirate cemetery of Saint-Pierre, located on a peninsula.

Climate

Nosy Boraha has a tropical climate with three seasons: 

- A hot, tropical season from January to April. 

- A cool, wet season from May to August. 

- A mild, dry season from September to December. 

Temperatures range from 20°C to 30°C, with alternating rain and sunshine.

How to get there?

There are two options to get to Sainte-Marie:

  • By Air: Flights via Air Madagascar from Antananarivo, Toamasina, or La Réunion, and Air Austral from La Réunion or Toamasina.
  • By Sea: A two-hour boat trip from Soanierana Ivongo.

How to get around?

Travel options include walking or cycling. There are no taxis, but you can use *toktok*.

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